May Grey is followed by June Gloom and the chance of securing good surf photos is cloudy at best. Every so often, however, the sun pops out in all its glory, lighting the scene and filling it with color. While hard to plan, it is those moments that I target for a surf photography session. Saturday was just one such case…

That’s right, there was a moment between the gloom when everything set up just right: a 3-4 swell with shoulder high sets, a gentle breeze, and then the sun popped out for about an hour before disappearing again. When it all came together, the crowd came running with enthusiasm.

The splash of whitewater of the top of the waves became a little brighter. The water turned from flat grey to bright aqua. And the surfer’s ripped.

More dudes decided to try their luck and across the beach they came in twos, threes, and fours.

Some laid back. Others tucked in…

And still others just pointed north.

It was an hour of shredding, blisful and powerful. And then, as June is want to do, the gloom returned, the crowds thinned, and the walk up the hill beaconed until another day.

From Gloom to Glory: The Art of Surfing Under Variable Skies

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