I spend a lot of time on the shore and in the water shooting surfers. With few exceptions, I find that we surfers are generally a super happy group. Why is that? My thoughts….

Let’s face it, surfing is hard. We start by going straight and standing up for the first time. Remember those firsts? From there, we progress into longer rides, a simple turn to go down the line, and eventually learn to read the waves and respond to what is offered to us. Along the way, every new move is momentarily celebrated, tucked away into the mental and physical memory bank, and then used as the basis for the next move. Eventually, we may be able to walk a longboard like we do the floor or launch a shortboard like Evel Knevel.

And here is my very non-scientific observation: Surfing provides incremental personal victories! Think about it. Every step of the way, we have to learn a new way to balance, move, cut, or glide. And we do it on our own with only ourselves to appreciate each success. It is a very personal experience; yet those are the ones that are the most satisfying. There is always room to improve, improvise, conquer, and of course, celebrate as only we can in the moment. What other endeavor could one undertake that leads to small victories in every session? Amazing!

As a surf photographer, I am drawn to expression. There are moments on the board and off the board that fully reflect this expression. It may be something as obvious as a fist pump (claim), or something as subtle as a smile. The subject matter is forever changing and the moments, while brief, can be forever. Your happiness makes me happy! And what could be better than a happy surf photographer?

These images are from just one early morning session this week. To see the full collection, click here.